Stitching stories of the past into the present
Celebrating the captivating history of hand-knitted fishermen’s ganseys and Sheringham Museum’s remarkable mission to keep this heritage craft alive
Deemed one of the prettiest towns along the Norfolk coast, Sheringham is celebrated for its striking murals, unique shops, rich history, and profound ties to the sea. Though it’s famous for lifeboats, railways, prehistoric finds and fascinating Viking heritage, the tradition of hand-knitted fishermen’s ganseys stands out as one of its most enchanting and enduring legacies. These distinctive woollen jumpers, with their intricate patterns and durable design, were more than just garments; they embodied female artistry, family pride and were essential for the fishermen who wore them.
Favoured as the standard work attire in numerous inshore fishing ports, ganseys were commonly donned by fishermen across the British Isles and North Sea coastlines. While they became popular in the 19th century in seaside towns like Sheringham, similar garments had been produced around 300 years earlier on the island of Guernsey to shield workers from harsh weather and sea spray.
The gansey was an indispensable part of a fisherman’s gear, providing warmth while allowing for freedom of movement both on shore and at sea. Due to their windproof and waterproof qualities, achieved through close knitting and the use of firm worsted wool, these carefully crafted jerseys were prized for their protective qualities and comfort. Alongside their practical use, ganseys held substantial social value as they were often knitted by loved ones and carried elaborate patterns characteristic of the wearer’s family or village.
Many patterns were memorised and passed down through generations, often indicating social status and acting as a fisherman’s ‘coat of arms.’ Stitch designs such as anchor, cables, diamonds, herringbone, hailstone, lightning, shell and more would be uniquely combined for different families; it was even said the different patterns served to identify fishermen drowned at sea. Knitters frequently repeated and developed distinctive designs to recognise their ganseys if lost or stolen, although there was a degree of competitiveness within many communities as wives strived to produce the most innovative and intricate patterns for their husbands.
Designs differed from one region to another and were typically associated with specific towns or villages. However, ideas for patterns were spread across the coast by Scottish fisher girls who followed the fishing fleets to pack herring and by families moving between ports. Whatever styles were chosen, the fishermen were always happy to receive them; surviving photographs show they wore their ganseys with pride, and many requested to be buried in their finest. Due to this tradition and the gradual decline of hand-knitting, surviving examples of early ganseys are rare, making images crucial for documenting patterns and keeping their heritage alive. The advent of machine-made clothing and the changing nature of the fishing trade in the mid-20th century led these symbolic garments to fall out of fashion, however their cultural significance will never fade.
Recognising the importance of celebrating this enthralling aspect of local history, the team at Sheringham Museum and the inspiring East Anglia Gansey Group have been at the forefront of efforts to research and revive the tradition of gansey knitting. Evolving from the Sheringham Museum Textile Team (created to support the museum’s first gansey exhibition in 2014), the group was formally established in 2021 to research, record and recreate historic patterns.
Their work involves analysing old photographs, tracing existing ganseys and interviewing senior members of the community about knitting techniques to ensure the stories and skills of the past are not forgotten.
“We’re dedicated to preserving this important part of women’s history and highlighting their often overlooked roles in the fishing industry,” says Lesley Lougher, a Trustee at Sheringham Museum and a driving force behind the gansey group. “What started as a mission to raise awareness has grown into a plethora of exciting projects and an ongoing journey of discovery that shows no signs of stopping.”
Hailing from a Sheringham fishing family spanning at least seven generations, museum Curator Lisa Little is equally proud of the remarkable progress the team has made. “Our amazing volunteer knitters have replicated numerous exquisite patterns from old photographs and recreated them in miniature ganseys, expanding our museum’s textile collection into one of national significance,” she adds. “We’ve also published a book on the history of ganseys in Sheringham, developed a gansey charting database, established an International Gansey Day on 23rd November and collaborated with gansey researchers worldwide, connecting with groups in Yorkshire, Scotland and even as far as the Netherlands and Alaska!”
For dedicated volunteers like Val Smith, one of the group’s most skilful knitters, recreating these complex yet captivating patterns from the past is a heartfelt endeavour. “I’ve enjoyed knitting ever since my grandma taught me to craft a dishcloth and a little purse as a girl, so I was excited to try ganseys when the textile group sought help for their heritage project,” she says. “Being involved in this venture is a wonderful experience; every pattern holds a unique meaning and there are real people behind them. It makes you feel like part of a history and fuels a passion for preserving these symbols of personality, perseverance and pride for future generations to admire.”
Discover more about ganseys and honour their heritage by visiting Sheringham Museum this season or follow the East Anglia Gansey Group on Facebook.