A coastal smokehouse with a passion for tradition
Placing a strong emphasis on care, quality and authenticity, Phil Hartshorne of Staithe Smokehouse believes minimalistic artisan techniques are the best way to maximise flavour...
With its abundance of seasonal produce and inspiring community of independent businesses, North Norfolk’s food offering is nothing short of extraordinary. Renowned for its delicious mussels and bustling harbour, the historic fishing village of Brancaster Staithe is home to a wealth of talented families and suppliers who are passionate about preserving longstanding local traditions in innovative ways. Phil Hartshorne of Staithe Smokehouse is dedicated to doing just this, striving to enrich natural flavours and showcase the importance of fantastic fresh produce.
Nestled behind the grand White Horse Inn, the atmospheric wooden smokehouse makes visitors feel as if they’re stepping back in time. The air is thick with the luxurious smell of smouldering wood as fresh local shellfish and fine Scottish salmon infuse over a bed of oak shavings. Employing authentic artisan methods, Staithe Smokehouse has been treating the area to an impressive variety of flavourful produce since opening in 2018 – but its story stretches back much further.
The original smokehouse was founded many years ago by local fisherman Paul Letzer, who made use of specialist skills and time-honoured techniques to enhance the rich natural flavours of his catches. When Paul passed away the business was taken on by his son Simon, who continued the family tradition and went on to supply pubs and restaurants across the county. One of the venues he visited was The White Horse in Brancaster Staithe, where passionate Head Chef Fran Hartshorne worked with her husband Phil. Fran loved crafting dishes with Letzer’s quality smoked salmon and Phil enjoyed smoking food at home, so the trio would often have long conversations during deliveries.
“I’ve always had a passion for working with fresh ingredients and creating spectacular flavours, so I decided to take up food smoking as a hobby about 15 years ago,” says Phil. “I built my first smoker from pallet wood and began experimenting with cheese before moving on to fish. Simon and I regularly discussed different tips and tricks, until one day he announced he was planning to follow his love for fishing to Scotland. He asked if I wanted to buy the business and take his family’s traditional style of smoking into the future. I was thrilled with the idea of running my own smokehouse, so one thing led to another and my hobby became my job.”
After spending a few months working alongside Simon to learn his age-old family secrets and techniques, Phil set up his smokehouse in a rustic hut overlooking the beautiful marshes of Brancaster Staithe. He poured his heart into building the business, working hard to expand the Letzer’s product range whilst staying true to their classic methods.
“I place a strong emphasis on tradition and quality and never use chemicals, dyes or modern technology when smoking. I’ve always been very ‘old school’ and feel it’s important to preserve skills and techniques from days gone by,” says Phil. “You get to appreciate the end product more when you put that time and effort into creating it.”
The level of attention to detail is astounding, as there’s much more to the smoking process than meets the eye. The temperature must be carefully controlled to achieve the right texture and flavour, and there are many other factors to consider - from the type and size of the fish to the weather.
“Salmon holds a lot of oil so needs to be salted overnight, washed, and hung for about an hour.” says Phil. “As it dries a thin protein layer called pellicle skin will form, which provides a surface for smoke to adhere to. I tend to smoke salmon for 25-30 hours - it really depends on what’s happening outside. If it’s a windy day the smoke will pull through faster so I leave the fish to infuse for longer. If it’s raining the smoke is pushed down, so the process is quicker and the fish comes out slightly darker. It’s a real thinking game and, though I’ve had years of practice, I dedicate a great deal of care and attention to every smoke.”
Times also vary depending on the type of fish, with cod and haddock taking 8-10 hours and shellfish such as mussels and scallops requiring 3-4 hours. Once smoked to perfection, Phil’s produce is either delivered to local restaurants and businesses, sold in the smokehouse shop, or taken home to be made into a variety of delicious dinners.
“Fran and I particularly like making a smoky seafood paella with haddock, crevettes and prawns running through it and delicately smoked scallops sliced over the top,” says Phil. “There are so many wonderful ways to enjoy smoked fish, and I love seeing inspiring local chefs complement my products with their excellent skills.”
“I’m incredibly lucky to be based in North Norfolk – it’s provided the perfect environment for the smokehouse to flourish, and I don’t think it would work this well anywhere else,” he continues. “It’s a great location bursting with passionate individuals, talented local businesses and a sea of outstanding seasonal produce. I couldn’t be more proud of the progress I’ve made here so far - and I can’t wait to see what the future holds.”