Stiffkey’s magnificent saltmarsh
Bursting with atmosphere and a rich array of wildlife, the mesmerising marshes at Stiffkey are imbued with a unique and rugged beauty
North Norfolk has a shining reputation for its boundless skies, stunning beaches, and miles of captivating coastline. Visitors flock in all seasons to experience the splendour of its charming seaside resorts – from the cheer of sunny Hunstanton and Wells’ vibrant beach huts to the atmospheric beauty of Cromer Pier and Blakeney Point.
Lesser known, but equally deserving of a place in a visitors’ guide book are the picturesque Stiffkey marshes. Forming part of Blakeney National Nature Reserve, this rich and remarkable landscape is protected by many national and international designations.
Saltmarshes are unique ecosystems created over decades when mud and silt are deposited along a sheltered part of coastline. North Norfolk’s waves are primarily gentle and lapping, unlike the crashing breakers of the Atlantic found further west, providing the perfect conditions for these wonderful wetlands to form. The daily tidal flow is what makes saltmarshes so important for biodiversity. They are a rich source of sustenance for a wide variety of magnificent marine and land creatures - and the tides deliver a regular supply of sediments, nutrients and water to a community of striking plants.
This is a timeless setting, a liminal place between sea and sky, sand and sea, boasting a rugged beauty. Intriguingly, nothing taller than a shrub rises from the vast expanse. Due to the tidal nature of the marshes, trees cannot thrive, which results in a sweeping panorama of a landscape. Stiffkey’s name itself, first evidenced in the Domesday Book of 1086, means ‘island with stumps of trees.’
Shrubby Seablite stands guard at the edges of the craterous pools, forming a shelter for vulnerable breeding birds. Sea Purslane glints like silver on the edge of the creeks, its lower branches providing refuge for many species of fish – which use the marshes as nursery grounds for their young before moving them out into the open waters of the sea. Deep purple lavender bursts forth from the marshes in the summer, splashing captivating colour through an otherwise muted landscape. Samphire, picked and sold as a local delicacy, colonises the open mud.
“This is a timeless setting, a liminal place between sea and sky, sand and sea, boasting a rugged beauty”
Stiffkey’s marshes provide a crucial breeding ground for many stunning and important birds. In winter, a whole host of incredible migrant species take refuge here – from dark-bellied brent geese and short-eared owls to swooping hen harriers. The distinctive redshank, known for its noisy echoing call and its nickname ‘the watcher of the marshes,’ breeds in the higher grassy areas in summer. Oystercatchers are also frequently spotted feasting on the abundant food sources the marshes offer such as fish trapped in pools, shellfish and insects.
It’s not just the birds that enjoy the seafood for which Stiffkey is well-known; ‘Stewky Blues’ cockles are a renowned local delicacy. They gain their name and their distinctive blue hue from the mud they live in, coloured by the deposits of silt brought in by the ebbing tides.
Designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, much of Stiffkey’s saltmarsh is carefully managed by the National Trust, who work hard to ensure the harmony between ecology and people stays in balance. The wooden bridge that carries visitors on a safe path across the marsh, and out of the way of wildlife, had to be removed in March due to damage caused by erosion. The Trust are currently working hard with local contractors to replace it ahead of the summer season.
There is much controversy over the pronunciation of Stiffkey, with many pronouncing it ‘Stoo-key’. This is thought to be a legacy of its spelling, Steuekey in the Domesday Book, the first time the village’s name was written down. It’s a truly fascinating location with a history as rich as its landscape.
Just along the coast, at Morston Quay, the National Trust Visitor Centre provides more information on this mysterious and magical setting – which lives on in the memory of those who experience it long after they have left its intriguing shores.
