Uncovering the wonders of whelks
Meet the seafood experts working to bring some local love back to this small but mighty shellfish
Whilst visitors flock to Norfolk for a taste of Cromer Crab or Brancaster Mussels, the whelk persists as the unsung hero of our county’s fishing industry. Once frequently shipped out to the midlands, national tastes have changed, and this humble gastropod is now overshadowed by the fresh oysters and juicy scallops that populate the Great British Menu.
Whelks are hugely underrated in the UK and most landings (including those caught off the Norfolk coast) are exported to Spain, France and the Far East, where they’re considered a delicacy.
However, with an increasing appreciation for locally caught foods spreading across the nation, this shellfish is growing in popularity. According to local fishmonger Matt Falvey of Gurneys Fish Shop in Burnham Market, whelks could be the next coastal trend to hit our tables. Boasting over 40 years’ experience in selling the freshest Norfolk delights, Gurneys has witnessed the ebb and flow of seafood preferences throughout the country.
“Whelks really are a symbol of Norfolk” says Matt. “Wells-next-the-Sea in particular has been built around a thriving whelk industry, which continues today. Choosing whelks is choosing to eat what is around you, opting for locally caught, good quality, wild food.”
“Most whelks caught around the UK are shipped to the south-east, arriving in areas like South Korea and the Philippines in vast quantities,” he continues. “It makes me think that we’re missing out on something. Surely, it’s a cultural miss? If you go to a cool oyster bar in Paris and try their shellfish platters, chances are you’ll see whelks amongst these.”
Just like any seafood, whelks become hard and chewy when overboiled - which has led to them getting an unfairly negative reputation. With its abundance of locally landed produce, the menus of Norfolk are the perfect place to restore recognition for this underrated species. The nutritional value of whelks is a key benefit; they’re low in fat and high in vitamin B12, which makes them good for the blood and the bones.
“There’s a resurgence in tapas and small plate offerings at restaurants at the moment, and I think whelks are the perfect addition to these menus”, enthuses Matt. “They’re light, easy to share and quick to prepare. I love them fresh with a dash of Sriracha.”
“The brand Sea Sisters have also paired kimchi with Norfolk whelks in their tinned seafood, which is a genius way to encourage whelks to be as popular here as they are in South Korea.”
In Norfolk, whelk fishing is an ongoing activity throughout the year, with January being especially favourable due to the icy seas suited to this cold-water loving species.
“We have whelks all year round here at Gurneys, supplied fresh from King’s Lynn by the Williamson family who run Donaldson’s Fishmongers,” says Matt. “I’m all about encouraging people to be adventurous in their tastes. Whelks are a fun and inexpensive way to sample a slice of Norfolk.”
Whelks are a fun and inexpensive way to sample a slice of Norfolk
You can pick up a small tub of these moreish molluscs for just a couple of pounds at Gurneys to experience their fantastic fresh taste. If whelks are an affordable route into trying seafood, it presents the question of what other underrepresented species can be supported across the UK.
This is a key thought on the mind of Gavin O’Donnell, Charities Communications Manager at The Fishmongers’ Company.
“Norfolk is the ideal place to experiment with seafood,” he says. “It boasts an incredible abundance of flavourful catches, tied to a centuries long tradition of fishers and seafood lovers right around its coast and beyond”.
As of 2021, whelks were ranked as the fourth most important shellfishery in the UK by volume and fifth by value. Sustainability depends on the location, with Norfolk’s inshore fishery being a key area to support local purchases. Whelks are caught using pots, which have minimal impact on the surrounding environment.
“Our recent work in Norfolk has shown that even if you grew up by the sea, not everyone thinks seafood is accessible. We’re on a mission to change that,” Gavin says.
“We set up Discover Seafood as an initiative to help safeguard the fishing industry and make cooking and buying seafood accessible to all. In Norfolk, you can currently find our summer leaflets with interviews from retailers like Matt and seafood trails to help you enjoy a brilliant day out tasting your way around the region. Our interactive website map also shows all the retailers across both Norfolk and the UK where you can try and buy seafood like whelks.”
With the season turning towards popular shellfish such as mussels and oysters, consider whelks to broaden your seafood palette this autumn. Sourcing locally is key, so the Discover Seafood website is a good starting point.
Visit www.discoverseafood.uk/region/norfolk or simply scan the QR code to find out more about the amazing seafood on our plates, where to find it locally, the best species to enjoy each season and the best ways to prepare and cook coastal delights.
